Beginner classes happen several times a year. We encourage people interested in joining the club to start here with their dog. Especially young puppies and rescues with little to no obedience or social skills. If your dog has been through obedience have a look at what our class has to offer or contact us about coming to regular training in what we call the advanced class. Advanced is expanding on the basic and to continue building your relationship with your dog. We continue pattern training of basic obedience, teaching tricks, Canine Good Citizen testing skills and recalls are just to name a few exercises.
During warmer months we set up agility courses, group dog walks and more. If you have something you would like to work on with your dog we have many members with different objectives and certainly someone there is willing to work with and along side you. We are also open to new ideas and looking for people with training experience to come support us and share knowledge.
Introduction & Training Tips
The first week is introducing a few basic commands that you can take home to practice. Essentially, the first class is more of a lesson for YOU the owner. The guidelines below will make training easier for you and your dog.
Be Consistent.
Use the same cue for the same command each time. lf you use "come" one week, "come here" the next, and "come here girl'' the following, you'll confuse your dog. Also, short one word cues seem to work best.
Start simple and gradually make it harder.
You want to go step-by-step and give your dog lots of practice getting it right. Start with an easy command in a familiar place with no distractions. Once your dog is responding consistently. Add distance, duration, and distractions. Wait until your dog has mastered the current challenge before you add a new one. Don't rush!! It is most important to create a great foundation that you can gradually build from.
Don't repeat the command.
It's easy to do, but giving multiple commands teaches your dog that he doesn't need to respond promptly to the first command. By repeating the command, you are giving your dog options.
For example: if you give the sit command and your dog does not sit right away, then you give another sit command and another, your dog has just been given the option to sit on whichever sit command that they want to.
Give ONE command and if your dog fails to perform the command ... make them do it. They will eventually learn that they need to perform the task when you tell them to, because they have not been given any other option.
Use food treats as lures and rewards.
There are many methods for training, but one of the best is to use food treats, both as a lure to get your dog where you want her to go and as a reward for obeying the command. If your dog isn't that interested in food. Try offering verbal praise without the treat, a favorite toy, or a physical reward such as a good behind-the-ears scratch or tummy rub.
Time it right.
The praise and reward needs to come immediately after the dog does what you want if she's going to make the connection – "Hey, if l sit when she says 'sit' l get a treat!"
Make rewards sporadic, and then phase them out.
Dogs are more motivated by unpredictable rewards. Once your dog gets the idea of what you're asking her to do, dish out treats. only for the best responses-the quickest sit, the best down Then vary the type, amount, and frequency of the reward; sometimes your pup gets a yummy treat, sometimes she gets a tummy rub, other times she just gets an enthusiastic, "Goooood girl". Eventually, you can phase out the food rewards altogether.
Keep it short and sweet.
Training will be most effective if it's fun and you stop before either of you gets bored or frustrated. Keep the mood upbeat, and make the sessions short. Five or ten minutes is plenty to start with or you can do many mini-training sessions throughout the day. Everyone has a few minutes to train their dog. For example, do a few quick training sessions during the commercial breaks of your favorite TV show.
Mix up people and places.
If you want your dog to obey your child, your spouse, your dog walker, and so on, and to be as reliable in the kitchen as she is in the yard, practice having different people give commands in different settings.
Keep your cool.
Yelling, hitting, or jerking your dog around by a leash won't teach her how to sit or come on request. It will teach her that you're scary and unpredictable, and that training is no fun. If you feel your fuse burning short, just end the session and try again later. Fair, calm, consistent training is the best way to get your dog to obey and respect you.
Once your dog knows a few commands, practice "Nothing in life is free."
Always ask your dog to obey a command before you give her a treat. a toy, a meal, a game or
walk, a tummy rub, or anything she wants. If she ignores the command, put down the food bowl, the leash, or whatever she's hoping for, and try again in a minute or two later. This helps to reinforce your role as the leader of the pack.
Keep practicing.
Don't expect that once your dog has learned something, they have learned it for life. They can lose their new skills without regular practice.
GOALS: Some goals that we hove for our Beginner Training Class are to:
Help you train a good canine citizen that is a valued member of the community.
Build a strong owner/dog relationship that is based on trust and mutual understanding.
Have confidence and control of your dog in any situation.
Make a few of your own goals that you hope to accomplish or work toward in this class!
Week 1
Homework
Use Bridge Words
Practice the Attention Game
Name Recognition
Sit
Down
Hand Feed
Massage Your Dog
Use Bridge Words
When training, you need to have a way to help your dog understand that he is getting a reward for doing what you tell him to do. A bridge word is a word that is used to bridge the gap between your dog doing the correct command and getting a treat. "Good" or "Yes" are good words to use. When the bridge word is used correctly it lets your dog know that he has done what you wanted. This requires good timing so the bridge word should be given the instant your dog performs the desired act CORRECTLY. In order to keep the bridge word effective for dogs beginning training the treat must be given immediately after the bridge word. You can think of it as a promise, if you break your promises your bridge word will lose power. Use your bridge word throughout your training sessions.
Practice the Attention Game
You must have your dog's attention before you can teach them anything. When your dog looks up at you without you having to say anything, this is called "Attention". Play the "Attention" game. Have a treat (or toy) in your hand while you're in front of your dog and have your hand with the treat stretched out to your side. You want your dog to pay attention to your face, but at first your dog will keep looking at your hand. Eventually he will look up at you after a minute or two of wondering, "Why aren't you giving me the treat?" Give your bridge word immediately followed by a reward with a treat the second your dog looks at your face.
Name Recognition
While training your dog, always say the dog's name before saying the command (Example: Molly, sit!) Your dog will learn to always look at you when their name is called, waiting for you to give the command. Try calling your dog when they aren't looking at you. If they show any signs that they heard you, even a flicker of his eyes toward you, say your bridge word and treat. Repeat this several times at random in each training session.
Sit
a) Hold your lure (treat) in your right hand with your palm up - lure is under your thumb. While your dog is in the standing position, bold the lure directly in front of your dog's nose. Once they are focused on the lure, move your hand holding the lure back over their head between their ears. Their nose should follow the lure. Your dog's balance will shift as their head goes backwards. As soon as your dog's hips touch the ground give the bridge word and treat. Do this a few times per training session. Don't start adding the "sit" command until your dog is sitting reliably with just the lure.
b) Once your dog can consistently sit for 9 out of 10 times, then you can begin adding the command "sit'' immediately before you lure your dog into the sit position. Call your dog's name, give the "sit" command, and then lure your dog into position. Once they are seated make sure to use the bridge word and treat.
If it's not working:
Your dog jumps up. You're holding the food lure too high--try again with the food just an inch above your dog's head.
Your dog backs up. You may be moving the treat too far back over your dog's head; aim for between her eyes. lf that doesn't work, you can try putting your dog in a comer when you practice the "sit" command.
Down
The easiest way to teach "down" is to use a treat or piece of kibble, both to lure your dog into a
down position and then to reward your dog for obeying the command.
a.) With your dog starting in the sit position, hold a treat in your hand with your palm down.
b.) Put the treat in front of your dog's nose and 1ower it straight down.
c.) As soon as her belly hits the floor, use your bridge word and give her the treat. Repeat the exercise several times.
d.) Once your dog is quickly lying down when you lure her with the treat, introduce the verbal cue. Say her name, followed by "down" just before you move the treat from in front of her nose down to the floor.
If it's not working:
Your dog stands up instead of lying down. If your dog stands up, just keep the treat closed in the palm of your hand until she lies down. If she starts to ease down to the floor, coax and encourage her. And as soon as her belly hits the floor, praise her and offer the treat.
Your dog lowers her head to the floor and raises her rump in the air. Move the treat toward her chest, and her back end should come down.
Hand Feed
Hand feed your dog as many meals as you can. This will get them used to taking food from your hand and will teach them to associate hands with good things. Your dog needs to learn that you are in control and good things come from you. Food is a survival instinct for dogs and it is important that your dog understands that food comes from you. Humans and canines both understand that those who control the resources are in charge. Also, you can use your dog's kibble as the reward when you are doing this homework!
Massage Your Dog
Your dog should feel comfortable with you touching their feet, ears, teeth, rubbing their belly, scratching their rump, playing with their tail, etc. If your dog finds any of these things annoying, go slow, but be persistent. Every day, start to rub and touch all of these areas. It is especially important that a dog is comfortable with these areas being touched if you are planning on doing therapy dog work.
Week 2
Week 2 Homework
Stay
Come
Healing on a loose leash
Release Word
About Turn
Keep Working On
Use Bridge Words
Sit
Hand Feed
Practice the Attention Game
Down
Massage Your Dog
Name Recognition
STAY
With a treat in your hand, ask your dog to sit or lie down. If your dog holds the position for a second or two, praise her and give her a treat.
Repeat the process, this time making your dog hold the position for a few seconds longer before you give her the treat.
Once your dog is responding reliably, add the verbal cue. Ask your dog to sit or lie down, then say her name and tell her "Stay" holding your hand out with your palm toward her nose in the "stop" position. If she holds the position for a second or two, praise her and offer a treat.
Repeat the sequence, gradually tacking on a second or so each time to ask for a longer stay.
Keep your dog focused on you by standing right in front of her, giving her your full attention, and looking her in the eye.
COME
Stand directly in front of your sitting dog. With your leash in one hand and a treat in the other, call your dog, "Macy, come!", in front as you take one step backward. Hold the treat against the front of your body at your dog's nose level. As your dog approaches, use your bridge word and give a treat. After a few times of doing this with success, when your dog comes in front of you, now remind him to Sit, use your bridge word and give a treat. This will begin to reinforce that when you call your dog to come, they should sit in front of you until another command is given.
HEALING ON A LOOSE LEASH
Always start off with your left foot when heeling. Also, give your dog the command, "Willie, heel!" (This becomes important during advanced training when you do not use verbal commands. Your dog will recognize that when you leave on your left foot, he should heel beside you.)
Always keep a loose leash while walking. The leash is not used as a steering device; it is merely a means to keep your dog safe with you. By having a tight leash, your dog never has the opportunity to get a correction or learn how to heel correctly.
There are a few different methods to teach a dog to heel.
Choose which works best for you and your dog:
Red Light, Green Light
Walk in your intended direction. The instant your dog reaches the end of his leash and pulls, red light! - stop dead in your tracks and wait. When he stops pulling and puts slack in the leash (maybe he turns to see what you're doing and this makes tlhe leash a little slack), call him back to you. When he comes to you, ask him to sit. When he does, say "Yes," give him a treat and resume walking (green light). lfyour dog looks up at you in anticipation of more tasty treats, quickly say "Yes," and give him one while you keep walking. If he pulls again, repeat the red-light step above. As you're walking, reward your dog frequently for staying next to you or slightly ahead and for looking up at you. If you do this consistently, he'll learn that if he stays near you or looks at you, he gets treats and gets to keep moving, and if he pulls on the Ieash, the fun stops because he doesn't get to keep walking and he has to come back to you and sit.
Collar Corrections
Some dogs may respond to a correction or '"pop" on the collar when they pull. Walk holding the leash with both hands. You need to incorporate a warning into this sequence if your dog begins to forge ahead. Before your dog reaches the end of the leash, say "Willie, heel." lf he slows down, say "Yes!" and call him back to you for a treat (keep moving). If he does not slow down and gets to the end of the leash and starts pulling, use a collar correction by quickly popping the leash backward and upward. This breaks the forward momentum the dog has going and brings him back to your side.
RELEASE WORD
The release word is just a word that your dog will learn to understand as its cue to be finished with the command. If you tell your dog to stay, for example, he should stay until you release him. The same goes for any exercise that the dog must hold a partticular position such as Heel. Don't allow your dog to decide when be can release himself from a command. It's your job!
Discipline yourself to use the release word because it will help your dog understand wllat you expect of him. An example of a release word is "Okay!" Practice using the release word consistently.
ABOUT TURN
Start by walking with your dog heeling at your left side.
To do an "about turn'', take your left foot in front of your right foot and make a ''T".
Move clockwise 180 degrees by putting the heel of your right foot with the heel of your left foot making an "L".
Continue heeling forward.
Week 3
Week 3 Homework
Leave it
Stay (Short Distance)
Front
Finish Left
Finish Right
Keep Working On
Stay
Come
Healing on a loose leash
Release Word
About Turn
Use Bridge Words
Sit
Hand Feed
Practice the Attention Game
Down
Massage Your Dog
Name Recognition
Leave It
Every dog needs lo learn the "Leave lt" command in order to keep them from grabbing unwanted items or chasing after other animals. Use the "Leave It" command every time you do not want your dog's nose or mouth near something (other dogs or people).
Start by putting an object such as a milkbone on the floor, under your foot. Hide a really, really high value treat in your hand, such as a piece of hotdog. Let your dog see the milkbone and sniff, scratch, and lick to try and get it.
When your dog stops sniffing, scratching, or licking at the milkbone, even for a second, use your bridge word and reward immediately with the piece of hotdog.
Keep doing this until your dog looks up at you or just backs away and leaves it.
Once they are leaving it. about 9 out of 10 times, then you can start to give a verbal command ("Bandit, Leave it!") when he goes after the milkbone. If he leaves it immediately use the bridge word and give the piece of hotdog.
When your dog seems to get the idea, place a treat or toy on the floor and do not cover it up with your foot.
Walk your dog near the treat or toy. They will probably start to pull to go after the item. When they do, say "Bandit, Leave It!" and keep walking. When your dog stops pulling on the leash or looks up at you, make sure you reward them with the high value treat or hotdog. Your dog will eventually learn that the treat that you have is better than what is on the floor. Remember to use your bridge word and reward them when they leave whatever is on the floor. Timing is key!
Stay (Short Distance)
Begin to get distance ONLY if your dog is consistently staying when you are right in front of them! You need a good foundation BEFORE you can add distance.
With a treat in your hand, ask your dog to sit or lie down. If your dog holds the position for a second or two, praise her and give her a treat.
Repeat the process, this time making your dog hold the position for a few seconds longer be.fore you give her the treat.
Once your dog is responding reliably, add the verbal cue. Ask your dog to sit or lie down, then say her name and tell her "stay" holding your hand out with your palm toward her nose in the "stop" position. lf she holds the position for a second or two, praise her and offer a treat.
Repeat the sequence, gradually tacking on a second or so each time to ask for a longer stay. Keep your dog focused on you by standing right in front of her, giving her your full attention, and looking her in the eye.
NOW: If your dog is staying consistently
Give your dog the stay command ("Molly, stay!") while also giving the hand cue (palm toward her nose).
Start walking to the end of the leash. Remember to start walking with your RIGHT foot when you want your dog to stay. If you start walking with your left foot, your dog will think you want them to heel.
When you get to the end of the leash, turn and face your dog. If they stay for a few seconds, use your bridge word and give a treat.
If it's not working:
Your dog does not stay at all when you walk to the end of the leash. You're not ready to add distance to this exercise yet. Keep working on the stay command when you are standing directly in front of your dog.
Your dog stays for only a few seconds and then breaks the stay. Immediately go in for the correction! Timing is everything. Don't give your dog the option NOT to stay. Take your dog back to the spot you gave the stay command and repeat the process.
FRONT
While walking with your dog in the "heel position", and with your leash in one hand and a treat in the other, call your dog, "Macy, come!", in front as you start walking backwards. Your dog should change his forward direction and follow you front as you walk backwards. Hold the treat against the front of your body at your dog's nose level. As your dog approaches, use your bridge word and give a treat. After a few times of doing this with success, when your dog comes in front of you, now remind him to Sit. Use your bridge word and give a treat. Once your dog understands that they are supposed to follow you and sit in front of your body facing you, you may choose to call this command "Front". So when you say "Macy, front", she will know that this means to sit in front of your body and face you.
FINISH RIGHT
This is a command that is easy to do with luring, using food, to move the dog around. You can also help to guide them with a leash.
Start with your dog sitting in front of you and the food in your right hand. Say "Lucy, finish" or "Lucy, around" (or whatever you would like this command to be called).
Switch the food to your left hand behind your back, with the dog following the food.
Once in the correct position, lift the hand to get a sit, use your bridge word ("Yes!" Or "Good Girl!") and give your dog the treat. At first, the dog will probably not be entirely straight, but this is ok as long as you are getting good focus. Gradually expect the sit to be straighter and straighter before rewarding.
Another variation: With your dog sitting in front of you, give the command "Lucy, finish" and take a big step back with your right foot, guiding her with a leash to walk in that direction around your leg, and then continue around to heel position.
FINISH LEFT
Start with your dog sitting in front of you and the food in your left hand. Say "Lucy, left" (or whatever you would like this command to be called). Take a large step back or to the left with your left foot, keeping your right foot in place.
Have the treat right in front of your dog's nose, keeping the treat close enough that they will follow the treat and in a large counter clockwise circle, lure your dog into heel while bringing your left foot back beside your right.
Once in the correct position, lift the hand to get a sit, use your bridge word and reward with the treat.
HINT You might need to guide your dog with the leash if they do not want to follow the treat.
Week 4
Week 4 Homework
Recall (Short Distance)
Left About Turn
Keep Working On
Leave it
Stay
Front
Finish Left
Finish Right
Stay
Come
Healing on a loose leash
Release Word
About Turn
Use Bridge Words
Sit
Hand Feed
Practice the Attention Game
Down
Massage Your Dog
Name Recognition
Recall (Short Distance)
For this exercise, we will also utilize our stay command that we learned in previous weeks. By now, your dog should be able to stay while you walk out to the eml of the leash.
Put your dog on a Sit. Give your dog the stay command ("Daisy, Stay!'') while also giving the hand cue (palm toward her nose).
Start walking to the end of the leash. Remember to start walking with your RTGHT foot when you want your dog to stay. If you start walking with your left foot, your dog will think you want them to heel.
When you get to the end of the leash, turn and face your dog.
If your dog breaks the stay, immediately go in for the correction! Timing is everything. Don't give your dog the option NOT to stay. Take your dog back to the spot you gave the stay command and repeat the process. Also, make the distance that you put between you and your dog shorter.
Call your dog's name followed by "Come!" and use the hand motion as well (with a flat hand, move your palm toward your chest). Make sure you sound happy and excited. lf your dog does not immediately start to come to you, start reeling the leash in to you. (You want your dog to come to you on the word come, not their name, so if you have to reel in your dog to get them to come to you, make sure you start reeling after you say "Come!".
When your dog gets to you, have them sit directly in front of you. lf you have to, lure them into tile sit position with a treat.
Praise and treat when the dog gets to the position you want.
Tip: NEVER tell your dog to "Come" when you are going to scold him or do something unpleasant ex: give a bath or trim nails. Punishing the dog once it gets to you is the cardinal sin of teaching this exercise. If you need to correct a bad behavior, you need to go to the dog. If you call your dog to "Come" and then scold them, they will associate coming to you with something bad. The result is that they will not want to come!
LEFT ABOUT TURN
Start by walking with your dog heeling at your left side.
To do a "left about turn", you need to turn to the left "into" your dog while sending your dog around you.
Continue heeling in the other direction.
Week 5
Week 4 Homework
Stand
Wait Before Entering Doors
Keep Working On
Recall (Short Distance)
Left About Turn
Leave it
Stay
Front
Finish Left
Finish Right
Stay
Come
Healing on a loose leash
Release Word
About Turn
Use Bridge Words
Sit
Hand Feed
Practice the Attention Game
Down
Massage Your Dog
Name Recognition
STAND
Start by kneeling on the ground on one knee. Put your dog on a sit, facing the inside of your raised leg.
Hold a treat in your hand and show it to your dog, but do not allow your dog to take the treat. Allow them to lick it and try to get it.
Your dog will eventually raise his back legs into the stand position. Be sure to use your bridge word and immediately give the treat.
Once your dog starts to stand when they see the treat, start adding the verbal stand command ("Penny, Stand!"). If they do not stand immediately, then take one finger and touch where their back leg bends near the belly. As soon as the dog stands, give the bridge word and treat.
When they begin to consistently follow the stand command, you can add the hand motion. I start by using a fist and opening my hand with my palm facing the ground.
Once your dog gets the hang of raising its back legs for a stand, then you can start to tell your dog to stand when you are standing instead of kneeling.
If it's not working
Your dog walks forward into the stand position. Go back to kneeling to reinforce the motion of raising the back legs to stand. You could also face a wall when you do the exercise so there is no place for the dog to move forward, and your dog is forced to raise their back legs.
WAIT BEFORE ENTERING A DOORWAY
Every dog needs to learn how to wait before entering doors. It is not only a safety issue, but a good way to establish leadership. Try doing this exercise any time you go through a door (like before and after going outside to potty, or when coming to training, or when going to the vet}.
We will be using the sit and stay command that you have learned already. Have your dog sit far enough back from the door that it will not hit him when you open it.
Give your dog the stay command ("Ollie, stay!") while also giving the hand cue (palm toward his nose).
Start walking through the door. Remember to start walking with your RIGHT foot when you want your dog to stay. If you start walking with your left foot, your dog will think you want them to heel.
When you get through the door and your dog has stayed, give him the release word. Remember to praise and treat your dog for doing the exercise correctly.
Week 6
Congratulations!
REMEMBER: Practice makes perfect!!! Your dog will only perform to the level that you put the effort into training them!!
This week is the final week of beginner class. We will put on a short demonstration for the advanced class to show the culmination of you hard work and training efforts.
You will also be tested on each of the commands that you learned throughout the beginner class.
It is not required that you and your dog perform the command perfectly every time.
It is essential, that you know how to effectively perform each command along with the use of correction or reward.